2023 universal registration document

5. 2023 Consolidated Financial Statements

7.3. Impairment tests on intangible assets

Accounting principles

Goodwill is not amortised. It is tested for impairment at least once a year during the fourth quarter or whenever an adverse event occurs. Adverse events may result among other things from an increase in market interest rates or from a decrease in actual net sales or operational profit compared to forecasts.

Impairment tests consist of comparing the carrying amount of assets including goodwill and brands with the recoverable amount of each Cash Generating Unit. A Cash Generating Unit corresponds to one or more worldwide brands. A Cash Generating Unit can contain several brands in case of similar marketing position or depending on organisational criteria and particularly when distribution circuits and commercial/management structures are pooled. Recoverable values are determined on the basis of discounted operating cash flow forecasts covering a period of 10 years (the period considered necessary for the strategic positioning of an acquisition) and a terminal value.

The cash flows are determined in the currencies of the countries in question and are translated, in the same way as the net carrying amounts to which they are compared, at the estimated exchange rate for the following year. The discount rate used for these calculations is based on the weighted average cost of capital (WACC), which amounted to 9.2% in 2023, to 8.8% in 2022 and 7.8% in 2021 for amounts in euro, adjusted where appropriate by a country risk premium according to the geographic zones concerned. The discount rates are post-tax rates applied to post-tax cash flows, and result in recoverable amounts identical to those obtained by applying pre-tax rates to pre-tax cash flows. The assumptions adopted in terms of sales growth and terminal values are reasonable and consistent with the available market data (generally 2.5% for Europe and 3% for the rest of the world for terminal values except in specific cases).

The use of discounted cash flow forecasts is preferred in order to determine recoverable amounts, unless details of similar recent transactions are readily available.

Impairment charged against goodwill cannot be reversed.

Impairment tests of Cash Generating Units for which the carrying amount of goodwill and intangible assets with indefinite useful lives is significant, are carried out based on the following data and assumptions:

€ millions 2023 2022 2021
Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life Excluding acquisitions during the year. Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life Excluding acquisitions during the year.

2023

 

Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life Excluding acquisitions during the year.

2022

 

Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life Excluding acquisitions during the year.

2021

 

Perfumes

Perfumes

2023

1,842.0

Perfumes

2022

1,842.2

Perfumes

2021

1,812.9

L'Oréal Paris

L'Oréal Paris

2023

1,227.7

L'Oréal Paris

2022

1,235.7

L'Oréal Paris

2021

1,215.6

Maquillage Mass Market

Maquillage Mass Market

2023

1,086.7

Maquillage Mass Market

2022

1,109.5

Maquillage Mass Market

2021

1,067.5

SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science

SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science

2023

921.5

SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science

2022

938.2

SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science

2021

234.7

Lancôme

Lancôme

2023

845.0

Lancôme

2022

850.8

Lancôme

2021

852.7

CeraVe

CeraVe

2023

823.2

CeraVe

2022

839.0

CeraVe

2021

812.5

Redken/PureOlogy

Redken/PureOlogy

2023

789.6

Redken/PureOlogy

2022

802.4

Redken/PureOlogy

2021

767.2

Matrix

Matrix

2023

734.1

Matrix

2022

755.4

Matrix

2021

720.8

Skincare Luxe

Skincare Luxe

2023

615.7

Skincare Luxe

2022

640.4

Skincare Luxe

2021

630.7

YSL Beauté

YSL Beauté

2023

536.2

YSL Beauté

2022

536.4

YSL Beauté

2021

536.0

IT Cosmetics

IT Cosmetics

2023

493.4

IT Cosmetics

2022

757.4

IT Cosmetics

2021

726.9

Stylenanda

Stylenanda

2023

478.0

Stylenanda

2022

493.8

Stylenanda

2021

494.6

Garnier

Garnier

2023

440.7

Garnier

2022

436.6

Garnier

2021

493.8

NYX Professional Makeup

NYX Professional Makeup

2023

433.3

NYX Professional Makeup

2022

446.4

NYX Professional Makeup

2021

424.6

L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase

L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase

2023

422.4

L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase

2022

429.5

L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase

2021

417.9

Vichy

Vichy

2023

322.4

Vichy

2022

327.3

Vichy

2021

336.2

Urban Decay

Urban Decay

2023

237.1

Urban Decay

2022

244.1

Urban Decay

2021

232.4

Shu Uemura

Shu Uemura

2023

209.7

Shu Uemura

2022

228.3

Shu Uemura

2021

242.9

Due to a delay in the IT Cosmetics Business Plan, mainly due to a delay in the international development of the brand, an impairment test was carried out on the IT Cosmetics Cash Generating Unit and a loss of value was recorded for €249.9 million.

The recoverable value of the IT Cosmetics Cash Generating Unit amounts to €561.3 million at the end of December 2023.

The discount rate used at 31 December 2023 for this test were between 6.4% and 14.8% including 9.1% for the USA and 9.2% for international. This rate is the result of specific rates for each market or geographic zone based on the risks they represent.