Accounting principles
Goodwill is not amortised. It is tested for impairment at least once a year during the fourth quarter or whenever an adverse event occurs. Adverse events may result among other things from an increase in market interest rates or from a decrease in actual net sales or operational profit compared to forecasts.
Impairment tests consist of comparing the carrying amount of assets including goodwill and brands with the recoverable amount of each Cash Generating Unit. A Cash Generating Unit corresponds to one or more worldwide brands. A Cash Generating Unit can contain several brands in case of similar marketing position or depending on organisational criteria and particularly when distribution circuits and commercial/management structures are pooled. Recoverable values are determined on the basis of discounted operating cash flow forecasts covering a period of 10 years (the period considered necessary for the strategic positioning of an acquisition) and a terminal value.
The cash flows are determined in the currencies of the countries in question and are translated, in the same way as the net carrying amounts to which they are compared, at the estimated exchange rate for the following year. The discount rate used for these calculations is based on the weighted average cost of capital (WACC), which amounted to 9.2% in 2023, to 8.8% in 2022 and 7.8% in 2021 for amounts in euro, adjusted where appropriate by a country risk premium according to the geographic zones concerned. The discount rates are post-tax rates applied to post-tax cash flows, and result in recoverable amounts identical to those obtained by applying pre-tax rates to pre-tax cash flows. The assumptions adopted in terms of sales growth and terminal values are reasonable and consistent with the available market data (generally 2.5% for Europe and 3% for the rest of the world for terminal values except in specific cases).
The use of discounted cash flow forecasts is preferred in order to determine recoverable amounts, unless details of similar recent transactions are readily available.
Impairment charged against goodwill cannot be reversed.
Impairment tests of Cash Generating Units for which the carrying amount of goodwill and intangible assets with indefinite useful lives is significant, are carried out based on the following data and assumptions:
€ millions | 2023 | 2022 | 2021 |
---|---|---|---|
Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life(1) Excluding acquisitions during the year. | Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life(1) Excluding acquisitions during the year. 2023
|
Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life(1) Excluding acquisitions during the year. 2022
|
Net carrying amount of goodwill and brands with an indefinite useful life(1) Excluding acquisitions during the year. 2021
|
Perfumes | Perfumes 2023 1,842.0 |
Perfumes 2022 1,842.2 |
Perfumes 2021 1,812.9 |
L'Oréal Paris | L'Oréal Paris 2023 1,227.7 |
L'Oréal Paris 2022 1,235.7 |
L'Oréal Paris 2021 1,215.6 |
Maquillage Mass Market | Maquillage Mass Market 2023 1,086.7 |
Maquillage Mass Market 2022 1,109.5 |
Maquillage Mass Market 2021 1,067.5 |
SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science | SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science 2023 921.5 |
SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science 2022 938.2 |
SkinCeuticals/Skinbetter Science 2021 234.7 |
Lancôme | Lancôme 2023 845.0 |
Lancôme 2022 850.8 |
Lancôme 2021 852.7 |
CeraVe | CeraVe 2023 823.2 |
CeraVe 2022 839.0 |
CeraVe 2021 812.5 |
Redken/PureOlogy | Redken/PureOlogy 2023 789.6 |
Redken/PureOlogy 2022 802.4 |
Redken/PureOlogy 2021 767.2 |
Matrix | Matrix 2023 734.1 |
Matrix 2022 755.4 |
Matrix 2021 720.8 |
Skincare Luxe | Skincare Luxe 2023 615.7 |
Skincare Luxe 2022 640.4 |
Skincare Luxe 2021 630.7 |
YSL Beauté | YSL Beauté 2023 536.2 |
YSL Beauté 2022 536.4 |
YSL Beauté 2021 536.0 |
IT Cosmetics | IT Cosmetics 2023 493.4 |
IT Cosmetics 2022 757.4 |
IT Cosmetics 2021 726.9 |
Stylenanda | Stylenanda 2023 478.0 |
Stylenanda 2022 493.8 |
Stylenanda 2021 494.6 |
Garnier | Garnier 2023 440.7 |
Garnier 2022 436.6 |
Garnier 2021 493.8 |
NYX Professional Makeup | NYX Professional Makeup 2023 433.3 |
NYX Professional Makeup 2022 446.4 |
NYX Professional Makeup 2021 424.6 |
L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase | L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase 2023 422.4 |
L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase 2022 429.5 |
L'Oréal Professionnel/Kérastase 2021 417.9 |
Vichy | Vichy 2023 322.4 |
Vichy 2022 327.3 |
Vichy 2021 336.2 |
Urban Decay | Urban Decay 2023 237.1 |
Urban Decay 2022 244.1 |
Urban Decay 2021 232.4 |
Shu Uemura | Shu Uemura 2023 209.7 |
Shu Uemura 2022 228.3 |
Shu Uemura 2021 242.9 |
Due to a delay in the IT Cosmetics Business Plan, mainly due to a delay in the international development of the brand, an impairment test was carried out on the IT Cosmetics Cash Generating Unit and a loss of value was recorded for €249.9 million.
The recoverable value of the IT Cosmetics Cash Generating Unit amounts to €561.3 million at the end of December 2023.
The discount rate used at 31 December 2023 for this test were between 6.4% and 14.8% including 9.1% for the USA and 9.2% for international. This rate is the result of specific rates for each market or geographic zone based on the risks they represent.